Kumegawa, Higashimurayama

Step out of Kumegawa Station and you'll see neon signs dotting the shopping streets that radiate from the rotary. Snack bars bustling with regulars and casual girls bars line the streets. It's not flashy like tourist spots, but that's exactly why you can experience an unpretentious, old-school Tokyo nightlife.

The area centers on two stations: Kumegawa and Higashimurayama. Both are local stops on the Seibu Shinjuku Line, so access from central Tokyo is a bit inconvenient, but rents are lower and so are drink prices. The drinking districts are compact and walkable.

The main nightlife here is snack bars and girls bars. Snack bars offer a homey atmosphere with the mama-san and regulars, where singing karaoke while drinking is the norm. Girls bars are more casual than hostess bars; you just pay for drinks and chat with the staff. There are a few hostess bars (kyabakura) too, but prices are often half of what you'd pay in central Tokyo.

The number of venues is modest—about 20 to 30 concentrated around the station. The area quiets down after midnight, so it's best to start early. Concept cafes and lounges are rare; this is a stronghold of traditional snack bar culture.

Access: from Shinjuku, take the Seibu Shinjuku Line (express takes over 30 minutes). Last trains are relatively early, so don't drink too much. A taxi back to Shinjuku can cost nearly ¥10,000, so consider staying at a nearby business hotel.

If it's your first time, just stroll along the snack bar street in front of the station. Places with signs reading "Snack" or "Girls Bar" are welcoming to foreigners. For hostess bars, some Japanese ability helps, but at snack bars the mama-san will likely greet you warmly.